Explore the Hillsides of Condrieu and Côte Rôtie
A famous river runs through these hills, a shimmering ribbon of water weaving its way through the vine-strewn hillsides – at times in languid curves, at others in bold, unwavering lines. It is, of course the River Rhône holding sway here, carving out a path through the heart of the prestigious Condrieu, Côte Rôtie and Saint Joseph appellations. Wine is famously one of the region’s top assets, but far from the only one. Join us to explore the northernmost reaches of the Côtes du Rhône!
• Defying gravity
Forget the usual vast, flat expanses of vines stretching as far as the eye can see. Here, sloping vineyards unfold towards the horizon, the vines often trained on tall wooden stakes; low stone walls trace lines across the slopes, supporting narrow terraces where challenging gradients make tending the vines a labour of love.
These plots, cultivated despite their dizzying steepness, make outstanding wines in famous-name appellations: Condrieu AOC (a mere 140 hectares), Côte-Rôtie AOC (240 hectares) and Saint-Joseph AOC (the northernmost section, shared with AOC Condrieu). Geologically, the terroir is a patchwork of mica schist, gneiss and light-coloured sand, where Syrah and Viognier thrive.
Despite the sheer slopes, vines have grown here since Roman times, producing well-loved wines which were transported to other French regions by river. Learn more about the history of wine-growing on these hillsides overlooking the Rhône Valley at the archaeological site and museum in Saint-Romain-en-Gal. It’s well worth a visit.
• Winemaking – and so much more!
Whether you’re a seasoned ‘wine tourist’ or this is a new adventure for you, Condrieu Côte-Rôtie is the place to be! There’s no shortage of wine experiences, most of them creative and unique. In Ampuis, for example, the Guigal family's Caveau du Château offers tastings of up to sixty different wines, and invites visitors to step back in time in a museum space developed with support from the Gallo-Roman Museum in Saint-Romain-en-Gal. Explore ancient vine, wine and cooperage-related artefacts and discover the rich history and timeless expertise that have shaped this very special region.
A little further south, Cave de Saint-Désirat has designed its own wine route, the Sentier de Découverte du Domaine de Rochevine. Explore the 3-kilometre trail complete with information panels full of fun insights about the history of the Cave and its vineyards, and facts about local animal and plant life. Our own personal highlights include the unique passageway beneath the old railway line and the stunning views over the Rhône Valley. But don’t forget to wear sturdy shoes – the terrain can be quite uneven!
If you crave a change of pace and the chance to explore the region’s fascinating history, be sure to stop in Vienne, whose highlights include the Roman Theatre, the Temple of Augustus and Livia, a Roman pyramid, the Garden of Cybele and an array of churches and abbeys. Finally, as a bonus for nature lovers, the Condrieu area borders the Pilat Regional Nature Park, the second such park to be created in France, boasting hundreds of kilometres of marked hiking trails.
• Anyone for Sunday Brunch?
Relax, it’s the weekend. No need to rush! Why not enjoy a lie in, then treat yourself to a Wine Lover’s Brunch? This irresistible event was dreamt up by Condrieu Côte Rôtie’s restaurateurs, and is hosted in a different location every Sunday from May to September. It begins with a tour of the estate or winery, followed by a hearty buffet featuring seasonal, local produce paired with estate wines.
And if mornings really aren’t your thing – even if it’s almost midday – why not make your way to Domaine de Corps de Loup, just north of Condrieu? Enjoy a guided tour of the vineyards and ageing cellar, followed by a tasting of barrel samples served with local charcuterie and cheeses. (A word of advice: avoid wearing sandals or heels for your tour of the vineyards, and allow around two hours for your visit.)
